Recently Published on the Folger Shakespeare Library Blog
Making A Scene
The large dented cauldrons of spicy
green curry, red curry and duck soup were cloaked in hovering fog and steamy
air of the monsoon season. It was
evening at the Gate Market in the heart of the old city of Chiang Mai, in
Northern Thailand. As I slurped a bowl of noodles so spicy it induced tears,
all I could think about was Macbeth.
Three days fresh from college
graduation, I had boarded a plane bound for a one-year teaching fellowship at
the prestigious Chiang Mai University.
Growing up, my favorite musical was Rodger’s
and Hammerstein’s The King and I, the story of Anna, hired by
the King of Thailand to tutor the royal children. I was forever singing the
lyrics to Getting to Know You,
beginning with Anna’s declaration that “When you become a teacher, by your
students you’ll be taught.” Now, heading to classes as a young teacher, I could
not help but think of Anna.
By day I guided a hundred and fifty university students in my
elementary-level English classes through the intricacies of usage between “say”
and “tell”. But, I wanted something
more: I wanted to teach theater. So, I approached my colleagues in the English Department
with an ambitious plan. The students in the university’s English Club staged an
annual play in English – Cinderella last year.
Hesitantly, I proposed to direct Macbeth – my favorite Shakespeare ever
since I played the First Witch and Macduff’s doomed son in a 7th
grade production. The department was
dubious – the language would be too difficult.
I persisted. Auditions were set.
But our
real challenge was not the play’s language, but its content. In one of the last
countries with a revered king, I was preparing to stage a regicide.
While monarchies worldwide have
become nearly obsolete, the Kingdom of Thailand’s ruling line remains
robust. King Bhumibol Adulyadej, or Rama
IX, has sat on the throne longer than any other current ruler. He is the great-great-great
grandson of the famed monarch who had hired Anna.
Arriving in Chiang Mai, I
discovered that The King and I was
banned. The king is endowed with near-divine status, and is protected from
slander by strict lese majeste laws:
Anna’s irreverence to the king crossed the line. Adapting Macbeth would not be as simple as
robing Shakespeare’s characters in traditional Lanna-style sarongs.
I found that Thai students were
reluctant to engage in open political discourse.
In college classes in the U.S., I had been inspired by the boundary-defying
nature of theater. I wanted to draw my students into political discussion, to
have them think critically about the parallels and differences between East and
West. Yet it was crucial we remain
respectful of the monarchy and of Thai cultural traditions.
We began adapting Shakespeare. Macbeth, the Thane of Cawdor, and the other
thanes would be Thai politicians. The ghostly apparitions would be conjured
through Thai shadow puppetry. The
witches became street children, who sell jasmine garlands at night across
Chiang Mai.
We erred on the side of
caution. We nixed the colors red and
yellow, being too closely associated to the two rival political parties, and
opted for a neutral orange. We modified the traditional Thai sword on our
poster, because it resembled the weapons favored by the monarchy. When I suggested that the play end with
Macduff placing a foot on the severed head of the Scottish tyrant, the actor,
an otherwise modern and outspoken junior, refused. In Thailand the head is the most sacred part
of the body. The feet are the lowliest.
I dropped the idea quickly.
In the jungle gardens of the
university, we discussed modern politics – twenty college students debating
thanes and politicians. One girl brought
up corruption, relating how she had been offered bribes for her vote in a local
election. Another girl drew an analogy
between the recently ousted Thai prime minister and Macbeth. After one
rehearsal, a student caught me on the way out: “I
hardly ever have these discussions with anyone but a few close friends.”
The night of the first performance
arrived. The lights dimmed on Thai rock music, and three street children ran
giggling onto the stage, asking: “When shall we three meet again?”
The following Monday, I met with my
freshman English class who I had assigned to see the show. I asked them to identify the Thai elements in
the production – expecting such responses as: the attire, the puppetry, the
traditional Thai greetings.
One girl raised her hand:
“Macbeth’s final speech.” She was
referring to Macbeth’s final soliloquy: “Tomorrow and
Tomorrow and Tomorrow, creeps in this petty pace from day to day… Life's
but a walking shadow, a poor player…It is a tale told by an idiot, full of
sound and fury, signifying nothing.”
Confused,
I pressed her to explain. “He’s describing the teachings of the Buddha.” Macbeth
had finally realized the insignificance of his vaulting ambition – a first step
toward enlightenment in Buddhism. I was dumbfounded. I had read Macbeth, studied Macbeth and acted
in Macbeth – never once had I drawn the parallel.
Miss Anna
had gotten it right. I had set out to teach my students Shakespeare. But, in the end, by my students I was
taught.